Our travels around the world by bike, barge, boat, camel or horse

Belgium to Italy by bike - Living Like Kings

6/29/2016

Our last day in Tornelli. We felt refreshed, rested, relaxed. We also felt melancholy, we didn’t really want to leave.

‘I could live here.’
‘So could I.’

I’d already seen half a dozen properties we could renovate. But I was being called back to Australia and my horses. Noel was too. It’s unusual for him to be taken with a place quite so much though. The tranquillity and restfulness of this area does something to you. It slows you down, makes you pause for thought – allows you to smell the roses.

We were eating at a local restaurant in Palombaro for our last night – recommended by the locals - one, for great food, and two for internet, but I didn't want internet in fact I was (am) loving not having it!

The short bike ride along over grown lanes of lush green, found us outside a small bar. It wasn't our fault. The restaurant opened at 6 pm, we were in town at 5.40 pm. The young barman spoke good English and talked passionately of his unhappiness in Palombara.

‘It's not a place for the young, it’s okay for you.' He said. I had to bite my tongue, I still consider myself young!

Sigh.

Outside the bar in Palombaro

Above - Images of Palombaro

Palombaro is a charming village, with a couple of welcoming cafes, a bar, a mini-market and the restaurant. A magnificent view surrounds one half of the town; elevated veranda's had me itching to climb private stairs to enjoy the view from up high.

As we arrived at the top of the hill, ('This isn't the right way!' 'Yes it is!') The clouds dropped a few spots of rain between the sunrays and a glorious rainbow stretched down into the valley.

‘Do you see the type of farewell evening I’ve organised for you,’ Noel said showing off the rainbow as if he’d arranged it all.

The convivial restaurant was empty. We sat near the vibrant jasmine that had not yet opened its soft pink/white flowers to release one of my favourite smells. We could view part of the grand vista, stay dry, and provide the restaurant employees the greatest distance to walk with our food.

With a small carafe of white wine, we asked Leonardo feed us with local fare and his recommendations. The menu prices were extremely fair and we felt no concerns with being taken for a ride. 'We would like some lamb though,' Noel said.

Leonardo thoughtfully nodded, I could already see his mind working.

To help wash down the wine (and keep us quiet) the Wiliam produced a plate of cheesy snacks, which I considered a starter - but that was yet to come.

What followed was a smorgasbord of yummy dishes.

'Homemade by me.' Leonardo (the chef) proudly explained.
'Homemade by my mother.'

All grown and produced locally; apple with chilli, a variety of cheeses, vegetables, fresh salad with extraordinary flavour, and wonderfully tender lamb.

We ate every morsel.

With another carafe of wine and another of water, we were fully sated in every way.

Noel paid the bill while I bathed in the moonlight, wishing the night wouldn’t end.

We had the 'snacks' to start. Three shared starters, a salad and the main course of lamb with several vegetable dishes, plus the wine.

oh and homemade tiramisu, of course.

Total Euros $48!
And I still don't believe it!

It was a fitting farewell.

Next: Florence!

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Italy to Belgium by Bike - Boars and Shepherds

6/27/2016

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We spent the morning in Lusicano, near the coast, walking the cobbled streets and rubbernecking along the back roads, admiring the grand architecture – most buildings re-built after the second world war – an exact replica of how it used to be.

Back home, the rainy day allowed us the excuse to watch an afternoon movie, read, sleep, and watch the world go by. The afternoon’s sun pushed the clouds away and a short walk along a brambly pathway allowed us to view another part of the valley and the wild boars.

‘I didn’t know how square they’d be, they’re so solid.’ I said.
The adults skipped up and down the countryside as a neighbour’s dog chased them off. Then the floor moved, what was happening? It seemed as though the dirt was running down the hill too. It wasn’t the earth moving, it was baby pigs, lots and lots of babies, from our peak looking down, they looked like a plague of rats!

‘I wonder if they shoot them.’ Noel mused.
‘They must do to keep numbers down, I can’t believe how many babies were there!’

They certainly had a good life, lush grass, untouched lands where they were left alone to meander – maybe….

Image courtesy of anankkml at FreeDigitalPhotos.net

Then we saw the shepherd. With twenty sheep and a happy dog (which didn’t partake in any shepherding). We watched the skill of the stooped Italian man, making good use of his walking stick. The sheep followed him across a road, he stopped and his woollen friends filed past him to the paddock, where they dutifully munched.

‘They are the best behaved sheep I have ever seen!’ Noel said.

Later from our balcony, we watched as the shepherd ambled along the laneway, with his sheep in tow. Was this Tornelli’s pied-piper? Quite possibly in his eighties, the ‘shepherd’ hoisted himself onto a patch of green, the sheep followed.

He lent on his walking stick and watched the world go by, well, he waved at one solitary car (must have been rush hour). Then tapped his leg with his stick and the sheep lifted their heads crossed the road to the next paddock and started to eat. The shepherd shuffled behind them – the dog galloped off elsewhere to sniff something out – completely uninterested in any sheep duties.

‘That’s two firsts for me today,’ Noel said, ‘wild boars and a shepherd.’

We won’t want to leave!

Next: Living Like Kings

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We Interrupt the Italy/Belgium Trip With This Notice

6/27/2016

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Buying a boat can be tricky - selling one can be trickier... are your buyers comparing like for like?

As any sensible seller (and buyer) does, we researched the market.

It's hard to compare like for like boats, especially barges. So I thought I'd jot down our thoughts if we were buying a barge to go cruising or live on board (or both).

Firstly, let me make it clear - We are open to offers!

Come and take a look at Rouge Corsair and compare….

When viewing boats/prices there is lots to consider. We spent three months full time searching before we found the right boat for us.

If you are comparing prices (and we all do) – keep in mind:

When was the central heating/boiler last serviced?
When was the engine last over-hauled/serviced?
Buying a steel boat? Is there a galvanic isolator fitted – there should be on a steel boat.
When was the interior last painted?
When was the exterior last painted?
When were the electrics last checked?
Does it have a holding tank? (there maybe few upheld rules on this now, but that will change).
How old is the furniture? Will you have to buy more? Where from? How will you transport it all and get it into the boat? (see here blog on our furniture!)
How will you run the TV and computers when you aren’t plugged into a marina (cost!) –ie, are there solar panels and are they connected to a control panel that converts excess volts to amps?
How old is the plumbing – can you access/view it all?
Can you access the bilge, if not, why not? What condition is it in? (you need to be able to access every part of the boat, inside and out).
Are you prepared to arrange and pay for haul out, survey and thickness survey
Is there room for transport ie bicycles and motorbike (how about getting two mopeds and opening up your world – how will you get them on deck easily (how about a bespoke derrick!)
Is there a dinghy included? – what if you can’t tie up near enough to step on shore (it happens)
Is the anchor functional and usable (ie not just toy-sized!) – does the anchor winch work?
Are there good ropes and fenders on board
What spare parts are included?
Are there tools on board?
Is there enough storage? Where will your big towels go, your linen? Your wet weather gear (wet and dry?) – all your paperwork?
Is there gas on board – is it safe, in an outside locker, are the hoses new/up to date/meeting regulations?
Are there gas alarms on board?
How many gas bottles fit, you need at least two.
If there is no gas, are you going to run the generator/engine every time you want a cup of tea?
Is there a BBQ on board – important – summers can be hot, you may not want to be in the galley!
Is there enough room in the wheelhouse to entertain comfortably – and especially when on the move – when guests visit they want to putter along the canal, how many can sit in the wheelhouse comfortably if it is raining or too hot outside?
How safe is the boat – strong safety rails all the way around the entire boat?
Is there navigation gear on board – charts, books, electronic maps of the canals?
Is the boat lived on – boats left empty for a time can deteriorate very quickly – test everything works.

Yes, there is a lot to consider - and more than this too.... but you CAN have your cake and eat it!

These questions and answers are obviously over and above a seaworthy hull (+ 4mm).

We have a hull thickness survey which our insurance company is so impressed with, they will transfer the insurance to the new owners without the need of a new survey/ultra sound until 2020.

If some of the answers to these questions are not being dealt with satisfactorily for the boats you are looking at – come and chat to us.

Every point above costs a lot of money to address if it needs looking at.

Surveys
Safety checks
Paint
Parts
Tools
Time
Effort
Hiring an expert/surveyor/technician/mechanic/electrician.... etc...

It is your choice, do the work, use your time, effort and money, or buy a boat which ticks all the boxes.

As I said, we will discuss offers… we wish to sell this summer…

Lots of picture/info here

And here.

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14. Belgium to Italy by bike - Chainsaw Wielding Lady

6/25/2016

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We realised that we’d been knocking on the wrong door.

David and Jill (our host’s nearby neighbours – also from the UK), had shown me a picture of their house, ‘nearest to the minimarket on the left.’ What I didn’t realise is they had shown me one half of the house, we were knocking on the other half!

We had stood on the door step feasting on the view. Across the road on a luscious patch of green, an elderly lady in a black dress and head scarf attacked a pile of branches with a chainsaw.

‘I used to have Italian neighbours who did that in Parramatta,’ Noel reminisced. ‘That’s a classic shot – a lovely memory, I should have learned more Italian while I could!’

The lady studiously ignored us and it was only later when we found David and Jill that we released we’d been knocking at the door of the chainsaw wielding lady, not our new friends!

Jill and David invited us in to their pretty house and we were able to ooohhhh and arrrhhhh at their beautifully renovated home. Sadly, they were leaving the following day – we’d love to see them again one day.

But we had a task today – well Noel did. He needed oil for his bike chain – a specific oil in a specific container with a spout. The rustic garage in Limiti was the ideal place.

Much gesticulation raising of voices and loud opinions were heard in Limiti that day – most of which Noel didn’t understand. After Noel had drawn his requirements in the air, the scrunched up, olive, face of the mechanic morphed into understanding – a big light bulb glistening at the top of his head.

The small reservoir of oil, for the chain, on the back of the bike needed filling. The appropriate oil from the shop in Limiti didn’t have a spout on its container, so the mechanic’s mate found a funnel of sorts to add to the assortment of goods.

Building the kit of tools, the mechanic waved down a passing farmer from his tractor to help with the re-filling.

The mechanic held the bottle, the mechanic’s assistant balanced the funnel, the farmer held it all together, the shop owner’s wife held up the farmer’s sleeve (which was becoming more and more oily) and Noel held his head – wondering ‘whatever next!’

But they made a great team and got the job done.

When the lovely wife realised that we were staying at Casa de Lynne’s (okay, I don’t know Italian, but you get the idea), her eyes wrinkled up above her warming smile – I could tell my friend was well respected and loved in this wonderful area she’s chosen a home in.

The lovely people of Limiti store and garage made us feel so welcome, and went over and above any customer services we’ve ever seen! What fun!

Next: Wild Boars and Shepherds

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Belgium to Italy by Bike

6/23/2016

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A Cat Conundrum

After extolling my new take on internet usage (previous blog - scroll down), we drove to Carosi to check our messages on email, mostly to check the boat advert and sample the Gelato. The internet was slower than my eyes opening in the morning, so we only just managed to arrange a new ad in a magazine for the boat (boat has been reduced - look here) and deal with a few immediate messages and book orders. After thirty minutes of a painfully slow connection I was glad to close the laptop lid and enjoy my frutti tutti!

Shrouded in a misty day that obscured the perfect blue of sky, we trundled home with a few more supplies and upset a neighbour - namely a neighbouring cat. The tabby came trotting along the laneway, tail up, obviously pleased to see us – clearly thinking I am Lynne (the house owner). Noel doesn’t really gel with cats, so he clucked his tongue and disappeared inside. I really didn’t want to get caught up with the cat – I have such a soft spot for animals, as long as they are fine and healthy (this one was) I try to keep away and not become attached.

The cat stopped in its tracks, miffed that I turned my back and went indoors without a stroke or acknowledgement – I felt guilty, how can cats do that to you with just a look?

I spied the cat food in our hosts store room – hmmmm this cat was expecting more than a tickle under the chin. I peered out the window, it turned around, tail high, showing its bottom to me as it swayed off back the other way. The following day, I saw where the cat lived – clearly loved and well fed! Cats!

Without wanting a big bike ride, we rode to the bottom of the mountain behind the house, and walked in the hills - we wanted to visit Grotta Sant Angelo.

Next: Chainsaw Wielding Lady

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Belgium to Italy by bike

6/21/2016

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Language Conundrums - Shops - internet - withdrawal

Each evening Noel studies Italian, repeating ciaos and arrevderchis in a beautiful Italian accent. It makes me smile.

Even better when out and about I can now defer to him, as he knows more Italian than me. He makes a point of doing this when we are in France – so it is my turn to sit back and smile.

But I noticed a strange phenomenon. When I was learning French, when putting my (limited) skills to practice I would listen to the conjugations, analyse them and try to respond accordingly. This took but a few seconds, by then, Noel had understood the gist of the conversation and answered for me.

I do the same thing in Italy. As I am not learning and don’t have to worry, so I don’t really think, I just pick up the key words and what’s going on – the language is similar to French and Spanish. Most Italians get the gist of what I am saying when I use my rudimentary French. Meanwhile, Noel is pondering his sentence construction and missing out on the entire conversation!

It’s amusing for me to watch shopkeepers tell me, ‘you have good Italian,’ (and I really really don’t), while Noel looks on bemused. It’s a little taste of what I feel like in France!

I’m feeling pretty smug (unjustifiably so) with my new (not really) skill! But, in fact, I feel healthier too, with my new outlook on life and how I fill my time.

Our (temporary) place of solitude!

I've been slowly withdrawing from the internet. Usually I am tapping away on social media every day. We are not connected here in Italy (these blogs are posted well after the event), and it is wonderful. I can fill my day with whatever I please (of course I write a bit each day), but suddenly I have so much time! My continually muzzy head has eased and my eyes are far happier and relaxed.

I plan to use my laptop less and less, until I am down to say, once a week. Do you think I can do it? It may take a few months, but I am committed, especially now I have felt the health and time benefits. Of course there are business matters I have to deal with on line, so I’ll always be popping into say ‘hi’ and catch up on work.

Follow me on internet/life/time journey. Italy has so much to offer - it is beautiful, calming and has taken us back in time and back to nature - it has also made me re-evaluate my life and re-confirm that my next career move - becoming a farm recluse - is the right career path for me - I wonder how I'll go...

This is where I plan my farm-girl-recluse retirement - guess where!?

Next: Lies? And a Cat Conundrum

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Belgium to Italy by bike

6/19/2016

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Views, Free Stuff, and Freedom

On our return from the Sunday market excursion we stopped in Pennapiedimonte. A charming village built on the crest of the mountain that includes settlements that date back to the Samnite period. It has an eye-widening view across the entire valley. The houses built here demonstrate the abilities of the master stonemasons. Buildings are dug out of the rock and finished with local stone.

This is actually Palambara, which is very similar to Pennapiedimonte (which has disappeared from my photos!)

Views are hard to capture by camera, not with lack of trying. As we glide home for lunch our noses are assaulted by sweet jasmine and wild rose that fills the air. The smell, like a lover’s hair, will be remembered forever as Italy. This place is stealing my heart and I've purchased several properties in my mind (renovators’ delights) along the way.

A short walk in into the mountains in the afternoon, has us gasping for breath. Tomorrow we'll ride the first bit on the bike and venture further up the track on foot. It is gloriously devoid of cars, people, and rubbish. Paddocks are left alone to do their thing and are lush meadows, dotted carelessly with healthy daisies and rich clover, the odd olive grove changes the view.

The free deep-green bunches of parsley in the supermarket is the first time I’ve ever been given anything ‘free’ in a supermarket.
'This is Italy,’ the lady of the till said, ‘it grows everywhere.'

As 5 pm approaches our thoughts turn to the Italian wine we must sample this evening - this is one of our jobs of the day. It’s been a hectic day:

So far we’ve:
Assembled a clothes rail.
Filled the dish washer.
Swept the floor
Done bike maintenance.

Life is so civilised. Usually we have several jobs going on at once. Day to day jobs (as above) are usually squeezed in around umpteen different tasks to earn a crust, and are only completed because we've run out of clothes and food, or are hungry.

It is total contrast to our regular existence - it’s bliss and a welcomed relief from the feeling of waking up each day, running around like idiots to fall into bed – what feels – like two minutes later!

Next: Language Conundrums and Internet Withdrawal

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Tornelli! - Belgium to Italy by Bike

6/17/2016

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We Don’t Have This In Australia

Fresh flowers’ vibrant perfume wafts across the cobbled market square, clothes and scarves line the next street; freshly cooked chicken and pork are carved into portions, the delicious smell causing a waterfall in my mouth.

Guardiagrele is positioned on a hill at the foot of the Maiella (national park). It is rich in history and culture. The town is entered through the Porta San Giovanni, next to the local craft shops of coppersmiths and ironsmiths. The church of Santa Maria Maggiore, built of rock from the Maiella, is a place we seek refuge from the warm sun and busy streets – cool walls and harmonising choir offer make our hearts swell and bodies cool.

En route to Guardiagrele (the back roads!)

Back to the cobbled streets, we order two coffees, thick dark liquid in tiny cups. Noel points to two small pastries, we've no idea what they are, but the idea is to try local foods.

Delicious - filled with custardy chocolate!

I don't take sugar in coffee - that is, until Iived in France, in Italy I have half the coffee and twice the sugar. Now I understand how to enjoy it - I love it! The homemade pastry is light, crisp and filled with wonderful chocolate gooey cream. The total cost is €3.70, for two coffees and two pastries.

We sit and people watch. Not one person is in their daggies or sloppy-Sundays.Tight, crisp jeans hug women's thighs, pressed neat trousers sit straight on men’s tall legs. Coiffered hair is perfect for both men and women. It has me pulling my pony tail tighter, helmet hair is not a good look and I can't remember whether I even brushed it this morning.

An English couple stroll passed, incongruous with slightly wrinkled clothing, uncombed hair and touch of the bewildered. I realise we mirror their appearance. We were not done up in our finery as the Italians are. Suits, high heels, make up and jewellery, it really is somewhere I don't fit! I've brought along one pair of old jeans, just my black boots, a t-shirt and 2 shirts and then all the motorbike jumpers, which are for warmth not fashion!

We wander the streets, fascinated with the market fashion, straight from the cat walk. It’s enough to just absorb the local culture, the soft accents with the odd harsh words floating around us - never words in anger, simply passion - with the famous waving of arms and hands as only the Italians can do.

What does travelling mean to you?

Next: Views, Free Stuff, and Freedom

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Italy! Belgium to Italy by bike

6/15/2016

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A surprise visitor and old customs

Sunday morning, it’s market day.

First, breakfast in the sunshine on the veranda. How long would this perfect weather hold?

As I am changing by the bedroom window which no one ever walks by, a farmer strolls by - had he looked up he would have had an eyeful.
The next moment there's a firm knock at the door.
It can only be that guy - oh dear, I hope he didn't see me!
I heard a conversation exchange and I couldn't tell if it is friendly or not.
'What's up?'
'This guy here is asking for coffee!'
'Oh okay, we'd better invite him in!'
I couldn't tell Noel that I had been half naked near the window, and this may be why he was here!

Tornelli (in the region of Abruzzo) is like stepping back a hundred years. Basic farm equipment, meadows dappled with buttercups - just left to be paddocks, old customs and courtesies. It's Sunday but our visitor is working hard in the surrounding meadows.
He wipes the sweat from his red face and props his pruning shears by the front door. Apologising with his cap in hand (literally), he instructs Noel to find his wife so she can make coffee. That much I understood.

What he didn't understand is that Noel makes the coffee in our household. Our guest/visitor apologises again and talks to us in slow Italian as if it would help. It doesn't.

But with our mix of French, Spanish, an Italian dictionary (thank you Lynne!), and a few words Noel has learned, we find out he is working the land and wants some morning tea. It feels fitting that he just asks the nearest house to supply this sustenance. He's just unlucky he calls upon such ignorant people.

He explains with passionate hand gesticulations that he’s a neighbour of Julia and Chez - whoever they are, but they sound okay.

He asks for some bread and jam, we feed him olive oil, bread and tomatoes, he’s quite satisfied and asks for strong coffee in a small mug.

Sample of the coffee served - we didn't have these lovely pastries for our guest - but we had them elsewhere.... keep reading next blog..

And boy do they serve it small here - potent, knock your socks off, tea-spoon stand up, coffee, just a mouthful (or perhaps two sips) and sugar.

Our friend, Archiler (phonetically spelt) gratefully sips his coffee and munches on the snack. I offer more. Noel manages to tell him that in Australia he was once a carpenter and understands how physically demanding trade/physical work is. As Noel goes to pour the remainder of the coffee for him and me - Archiler jumps up and bids us ciao.

'Well that was interesting.'
'Can you imagine that happening in Potters Bar? Or Greenwell Point? People would be locking their doors and calling the police saying there's a mad man around.’

But we are the strangers here not him. We are in his country, in a village where things are done differently – perhaps how they should be.

As Noel and I sat and ate our tomato, olive oil, and bread we agreed (and I've said before) that this is what travelling is all about. We've met a working local and fed him without exchanging the same language. We've learned about hospitality in the hamlets of Italy, in the country and perhaps how it was done and where only pockets are holding to this tradition with their finger tips.

After our pleasant interlude, fortified with coffee and bread, we hop on the bike to the local market.

Next: We Don’t Have This In Australia

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Belgium to Italy by Bike - 11

6/13/2016

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Dance Floor and Yodelling

Although we'd just arrived in the enchanting village of Tornelli and despite our limbs heavy with fatigue we had to shop. With just a five minute bike ride down the road we met Sabia in the mini-market. Strangely, my basic French convinced her I had a smattering of Italian!

We filled our basket with local cheese, fresh bread, fresh rich tomatoes, plump olives and wine – we were set.

With our bodies finally still, but our heads still ‘travelling’ we utilised our host’s wonderful CD collection and celebrated our safe arrival and achieving our fifteen year old dream.

We couldn’t stop staring at the view. Proud mountains reached up into the sky to the west. North the undulating green hills eased our tired eyes. East stretched our vision to the glimmering ocean. South allowed us to ponder the local building design, private gardens, and olive groves.

Many contented sighs floated off into the cool evening air.

The large, cool marble floor in the lounge created a wonderful dance floor – fortunately the neighbouring houses were empty, the cats must have thought there was new animal friends in town. (Noel usually likens my singing to yodelling, but a screeching cat is about the same).

A quieter moment!

We slept well, downstairs, for the bedrooms are downstairs and the kitchen/diner and lounge (with the fabulous veranda) are upstairs to make full use of the height and therefore the view.

With no internet or phone we indulged in sleeping, eating, and reading, with a fair bit of staring into space.

We watched a movie to help our minds calm and even worked out the dish-washer (living on boats most of our married/travelling lives we’ve not had such luxurious equipment!)

As we settled into our second night, and indulged in local olives, there was a knock on the door, Jill and David are Lynne’s neighbours (5 mins away) and friends. I instantly felt at home with this pair. They recommended the market in Guardiagrele and stopping in Pennapiedimonte for the views right over the entire valley.

Our exploration of Italy was about to start.

Next: A Surprise Visitor and Old Customs

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<<Previous

Belgium to Italy by bike - Living Like Kings

Italy to Belgium by Bike - Boars and Shepherds

We Interrupt the Italy/Belgium Trip With This Notice

Buying a boat can be tricky - selling one can be trickier... are your buyers comparing like for like?

14. Belgium to Italy by bike - Chainsaw Wielding Lady

Belgium to Italy by Bike

A Cat Conundrum

Belgium to Italy by bike

Language Conundrums - Shops - internet - withdrawal

Belgium to Italy by bike

Views, Free Stuff, and Freedom

Tornelli! - Belgium to Italy by Bike

We Don’t Have This In Australia

Italy! Belgium to Italy by bike

A surprise visitor and old customs

Belgium to Italy by Bike - 11

Dance Floor and Yodelling

Further Reading

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