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Diksmuide History, Sights, and Ghosts

12/17/2015

8 Comments

 
The Ijzertoren (Iron Tower) is a memorial along the Belgian Yser river in Diskmuide. It commemorates the Belgian and Flemish soldiers killed on the front during WWI.

The rebuilt* tower is 84 metres high, and is the highest peace monument in Europe.
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As you walk along the narrow pathway to the monument, hidden speakers call out the names of the war heroes.
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No More War - written on the bottom right. AVV-VVK - at the top mean - Alles Voor Vlaanderen, Vlaanderen voor Kristus; All for Flanders-Flanders for Christ.
From the start of Belgium until the first World War, the official language in the Belgian army was French. Most officers spoke French. During World War I, many Flemish soldiers were recruited to fight in the trenches. This resulted in the Flemish Movement during the war, and the demand for more Flemish rights.
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View from the top of the monument.
The IJzertoren site is the burial place of Flemish soldiers killed during the fighting on the Yser Front.

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You take the lift to the top of the tower and enjoy the wonderful view - that is surely a mass grave.... Then you climb down the stairs to experience the sights and sounds of Diksmuide during the Great War.
It's hard to believe this town (and many others) were reduced to rubble during the First World War. It was the scene of a famous battle the Battle of the Ijzer, in 1914, when French and Belgian troops finally stopped the German advance, but at an horrendous price. The old town centre was rebuilt completely after the armistice. 

How did they stop the advance?
A ship’s master, Hendrik Geeraert opened the sea locks and masses of water flowed inland toward the low-lying plains. This paralysed further German movement.  However, the Germans managed to hold on to a few isolated ’islands’ on the west bank of the river until 1918. In the open plains, the situation was always dangerous, though. The front stabilised on the IJzer and later on the River Marne in France. But both sides dug in and four years of dreadful trench warfare began.
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These plains were flooded to prevent Germany advancing.
Up till World War II, the main language in Belgian politics and the army was still French.
But many Flemish sympathised with the Germans - the language was easier to understand than French, and this resulted in a split between Flemish families still supporting the Belgian stage and Flemish families who collaborated with the Germans.
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Nieuwpoort - 16 km away
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There's Nieuwpoort in the distance. On the horizon I could see a ship - when I looked through the telescope I could see several ships.
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Shells - each one bears the name of the soldier who's ashes are inside.
After World War II, many Flemish were accused of German collaboration. Either by the state or by former members of the resistance.

In March 1946, the first *IJzertoren was blown up. The perpetrators were never caught, but there are theories of the Belgian state approving the demolition, or even helping the saboteurs.


On the same site a new, larger tower was built several years later. With the remains of the old tower, the Pax gate (Gate of Peace).

Today, the tower is a symbol to remember the cruelties that happen during wars, thus it is a symbol of peace.
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On a lighter note - this is where we are for winter - you can see the row of boats coming toward the centre from the left. We are the last boat in the row - pretty much in the centre of the picture. It is lovely and peaceful with no hint of the atrocities that once occurred. Locals warn us to be careful where we walk; many live mines still remain.... bombs have been known to rise with the water..... An interesting place and filled with wonderfully kind people.
8 Comments
Val
12/17/2015 09:43:58 am

The poor Belgians have always been at odds with each other, Jackie. This is a poignant example of how they are divided. As I've said somewhere else, the only thing that unites them is their common dislike of their neighbours! It's amazing the country operates at all, really. Amazing views you've caught here! What a distance!

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Jackie Parry link
12/17/2015 09:51:11 am

Thanks Val. I knew little about events here - it is staggering and humbling. Sometimes I feel I am walking among ghosts - the dead that is - the living are kind and intelligent - making our stay an absolute pleasure.

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Val
12/17/2015 09:49:33 am

Ooh, I forgot to say what a great aerial view of boats! I really like Diksmuide too. It's a lovely town. It's funny how mostly Flanders has the pretty towns and Wallonia has the beautiful hills and scenery although there are exceptions on both sides of course. I hope you get that bike going and manage explore further afield. Belgium is so lovely.

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Jackie link
12/17/2015 01:08:28 pm

Thanks - we picked the perfect day for the pictures. We've been out a few times on the bike - but have to pick the days carefully now - brhhhhhhh! So many plans and wonderful things to see - I will keep you posted.

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Rolande
12/17/2015 12:51:23 pm

Now I know where you are. I was not aware of that history. Thank you for the informative post.

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Jackie Parry link
12/17/2015 01:07:05 pm

Hi Rolande! - This is a mere snapshot as you can imagine - it is a beautiful place with a devastating past. BTW I have your email and will write soon - busy finishing next manuscript! :-)

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Barrie and Carole Grant
12/18/2015 05:31:17 am

Thank you for such a concise history of our common wintering moorage!! Our Tjalk is the compete one on the far right of this row of boats. We are also honoured and humbled to be in Diksmuide, the people are so lovely and the area is interesting. The history lesson above is important and right on. Thanks for the post.

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Jackie link
12/18/2015 07:31:14 am

Thank you! There is so much more - it is fascinating - awful and amazing all at the same time. There will be more - we went on a beautiful evening walk..... oh, and they'll be prizes!!

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